This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. Yes, normal cream is fine. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. Each hide has its own unique color. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. Simon Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. Same on the eyelets. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). It is all essentially corium. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. Thanks! I do love these shoes. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. Who should do this instead of me next time? I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. I had been trying to buy some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell and for months none appeared on eBay, Grailed or Styleforum. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. And when its grey denim, black shoes actually look best. P.S. You just brush or wipe it off. This process leaves the material with a very high . A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. Thanks in advance. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. As Nick Horween told us. The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. Burgundy I would worry about how smart it would look with some of the suits. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? Many thanks, Thanks for your response. Love it! My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. Later, you can then brush them off, followed by a thin layer of protective cream polish, rubbed into the shell, and a thorough brushing. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. ), sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and so on. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). My Alden Tassel Loafers on the Aberdeen last in the E fitting (Aldens widest fitting), are my most comfortable shoes. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. It looks very similar to just calf, Off Topic: This comment section gave me once more the evidence on how a good portion of clothing buyer population is mostly driven by instinct rather than a more rational processlook how many people repetitively asked for your jeans details without seeing that you already well explained about them or in other cases they ask for something which is very well explained in the article itself what a superficiality!! Dear Simon, The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. #1. Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. Yes, I know what you mean. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Any comments on these issues? Thank you for a most interesting article. Can it be fixed? Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. Hi Simon, No, a dark brown leather or calf loafer will be more versatile, Thank you for your fast response! Who should buy Crockett & Jones. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Do you think that Alden or Edward Green have lasts for loafers which can fit with wide feet ? I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Not elegant enough? The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. Most Eye-Catching Cordovan: Heinrich Dinkelacker. They remain perfect. But whether it was the best choice depends a lot on what you else you wear? I find it hard to describe as you can tell. Take care. Same with a pair of Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $600 at Bergdorf Goodman. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Thanks, Simon. Thanks. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. A quality pair that fits you can last a lifetime, if cared for properly. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. Fair enough, thanks! 379X Military Last. Hey Simon, Have you got them stretched by cobbler? I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Safe travels to NY. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Still, at shell cordovans current price points, I cant say that Ill be picking up another pair any time soon. 2. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. Then there is the leather sole. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. Brilliant. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. And partly that mine have darkened a little with wear. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. Cheers! For now, Id recommend going for a more comfortable fit with cordovan, if you have the chance. RO! How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. Later in the day I read this article. This is a personal preference. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Grandat bought them in the early 90s. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! Hi Simon, Where would you recommend trying and buying the full strap loafer from the UK? Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan, though for a different reason (total ok with roll vs crease). P.S. Thank you in advance. And they can both be brushed out. also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would have been used? Hey Simon! Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid.

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